Portico Coffee in Fort Worth offers novel spin on same-old coffee shop
A coffee shop in Fort Worth's historic Northside neighborhood has changed hands and taken a new name: Called Portico Coffee, it's the new concept located in the former Revive Coffee, at 2503 Roosevelt Ave.
The shop was originally opened in 2022 by Cassie Warren, who had the classic dream to have her own coffeehouse. But she is also in the military, and was offered a new assignment that made balancing the shop a challenge.
She found a buyer in Noble Menchaca, a coffee-scene veteran who was already working at the shop and had experience working at half a dozen shops in the past five years.
"I love the industry - I love nerding out about the beans and the roasting," he says. "Cassie knew I wanted to have my own shop and I'd talked about my vision to have a place not just to get coffee but for the community."
The transfer took place on October 1.
Menchaca is quietly thoughtful, an artist and illustrator whose interest in coffee began in college when he would offer drawing lessons and host meetings at local coffee shops. He envisions a collaborative space for art and coffee, with live music, drawing classes, and a zero-commission gallery room for local visual artists to showcase their work.
"This house is filled with generational artistry and I hope to continue to celebrate that legacy with future events of poetry, music, literature, and visual arts," he says.
The beverage menu includes espresso drinks and limited baked goods, with coffee from Texas-based Moravian, though Menchaca plans to feature beans from other international roasters like Danish powerhouse, La Cabra.
One practice that goes against the grain is his desire to veer away from the sweet drinks offered by many coffee chains.
"Personally, I think coffee is better enjoyed with moderate to low amounts of sugar," he says. "I’d rather offer something entirely new."
This includes innovative housemade syrups and flavors such as the popular fig brown sugar, and Menchaca’s favorite, date rosemary.
This gourmand approach extends to the food, in menu items like orange cardamom olive oil cake, Earl Gray shortbread cookies, orange fig scones, cake donuts hand-dipped in lemon lavender glaze, and even beef empanadas.
"We like to have fun with flavors, which is why the menu looks a little different from what you might see elsewhere," he says.
Open from 8 am-4 pm every day except Wednesdays, the shop is in the Koldin House, a glorious two-story home built in 1913 for then-Stockyards manager Anton Koldin. (Cassie and Jacob Warren, who still own the building, recently received an award from Historic Fort Worth, Inc. for their preservation efforts.)
There's outdoor seating around a community garden, three gazebos, and on the porch.
“Portico," which is Latin for “porch," references Soloman's Portico, a location mentioned in the New Testament where people gathered to share resources and support one another.
"And the Koldin House has a prominent porch that is perfect for people meeting to enjoy a nice cup of coffee," he says.