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Where to Eat Right Now

Where to eat in Fort Worth right now: 10 best dive restaurants in town

Malcolm Mayhew
Jan 6, 2016 | 12:30 pm

Holidays are made for the fancy meal in a spiffy setting. But when January comes, our thoughts — and wallets — head for the flipside: the dive. We're talking about the hole-in-the-wall where you can get good food for a pittance, atmosphere be damned.

Fort Worth's quintessential dive is Fred's Texas Café, the West Seventh burger joint that was featured on an episode of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. Guy Fieri was no fool. Fred's sets the standard with its ramshackle building, sketchy characters, and reasonably priced food.

In addition to Fred's, these are the city's best dive restaurants:

Alma's Paleteria
Seven years ago, long before gourmet ice cream became a thing here, the Ponce family began making ice cream in this tiny southeast Fort Worth shop. Today not only locals but also chefs and foodies cram the place for caramel and tres leches ice cream, along with an assortment of frozen pops in gourmet flavors both savory and sweet, such as horchata, dulce de leche, and mango-chile. 1215 E. Seminary Dr. 817-927-0313.

Angie's Bikkles Caribbean Restaurant
Located on a hard-to-find side street in the Hospital District, this cozy joint is one of the few restaurants in Fort Worth to specialize in Caribbean food. Maureen "Angie" Hucey serves curried goat, jerk chicken, fried sweet plantains, and other Jamaican staples in a bright, cheery room. Regulars know it takes a while to get your food, so they come prepared with friends or books. 1704 Galveston Ave. 817-443-5757.

Charley's Old Fashioned Hamburgers
In a town loaded with burger dives, 24-year-old Charley's ranks among the best. It's a tiny spot, with a half-dozen, mismatched tables inside and picnic seating outside. You order at a window, then wait for someone to yell your name. Burgers are cooked the old-school way, on a flat-top grill, but many have new-school touches, such as Tabasco-infused patties or toppings such as sliced avocado. Be sure to get a cup of house-made limeade. 4616 Granbury Rd. 817-924-8611.

Dos Molina's
Housed inside a century-old building and found by spotting a faded wooden sign, Gloria Molina's charming little dive has been a hotbed for traditional Tex-Mex fare since it opened on the north side 35 years ago. You might not find better flour tortillas. These are so large their edges peek out of their plastic holders. Beef tips are super tender and spicy. Lunch specials are $5.99, and breakfast egg platters start out at $4. 404 N. 25th St. 817-626-9394.

I-Pho
Opened last year near TCU, this undiscovered gem is as low-key as you can get: no website, no Facebook page, just a sign that may lead some to believe this is an iPhone store. Those who've unearthed it have found inexpensive, generous bowls of pho, priced under $10, and cheap, cheap, cheap banh mi sandwiches. A fried tofu banh mi will set you back a mere $3.75. Don't tell anyone about this place, okay? 2817 W. Berry St. 817-349-9128.

Jesus Family Restaurant
Tiny diners and cafes dot the landscape of Fort Worth's restaurant scene. On the south side, Paris Coffee Shop rules supreme for people-watching and pie; the nearby Hemphill's Restaurant can't be beat for breakfast. But for hand-breaded chicken fried steak — TWO pieces of it — seek out Jesus Borja's sardine can of a cafe. Still run by the eightysomething Borja and his family, the restaurant also serves barbecue and Mexican. But it's the CFS, one piece plopped on top of the other, that has drawn regulars since opening in 1969. 810 S. Main St. 817-332-0168.

M&M Steak House
Beloved for its unapologetically over-the-top Texas atmosphere, in which you sit among staring eyes of taxidermied animals and country music booming from a jukebox, M&M is one of the city's most well-known dives. A half-dozen variations of steak are available, along with calf fries and frog legs. It's virtually the same menu from when the place opened in 1951 under the name Papa Joe's. The restaurant is now owned by Keith Kidwell, who also owns the equally dive-y Margie's Original Italian Kitchen. 1106 NW 28th St. 817-624-0612.

Margie's Original Italian Kitchen
Since opening in 1953, Margie's has changed as much as the dusty stretch of far west Fort Worth where it resides — which is to say, not much. Tables are still covered in checkerboard tablecloths, the lighting is still low, and the one-room restaurant still fills up on weekend nights. Long-timers swear by the lasagna and linguine with garlic pesto sauce. Dives are all about steals, and you'll find one with a sampler that features portions of lasagna, manicotti, cannelloni, fettuccine Alfredo, and chicken parmesan — enough to feed two or three people, for just over $20. 9805 Camp Bowie West Blvd. 817-244-4301.

McKinzie Cut-Rate Liquor
It doesn't get much more divey than a barbecue stand in a liquor store on the east side of Fort Worth. This is not the city's best barbecue, but owner Jerry McKinzie touts the city's best barbecue deal: a dynamite chopped beef sandwich for $2. Moist, smoky meat drenched in a sweet sauce spills out from thick, buttered Texas toast; you're gonna want to get two. 154 N. Riverside Ave. 817-838-0005.

Thai Rice N' Noodle
The Thanpaisarnsamut family owns some of the city's nicest Thai restaurants, Spice on the Near Southside and Thailicious in Arlington Heights included. Thai Rice N' Noodle came first, in 2006. Located next door to an iffy gas station on a dicey stretch of Camp Bowie West, it reflects the family's humble start; it is 100-percent dive. Must-gets include ground chicken stir fry with mint leaves; a house salad with freshly made lemon dressing; and the chicken pad woon sen, made with moist chicken and firm glass noodles. Service can be unpredictable, a hallmark of any true dive. 9094 Camp Bowie West Blvd. 817-560-3758.

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Thai Rice 'N Noodles

Thai Rice 'N Noodle
Photo courtesy of Yelp
Thai Rice 'N Noodles
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Oh, what fun!

Expert Fort Worth Christmas lights family plugs in sweet new drive-thru Sugar Lane Lights

Cecilia Lenzen
Nov 8, 2022 | 3:38 pm
Tell Family Lights
Facebook/Tell Family Lights

They know a thing or two from their annual Tell Family Lights display in far north Fort Worth.

This year, Jeff Tell and his family are spreading holiday cheer even further than usual with their new drive-thru lights experience called "Sugar Lane Lights."

The Tell family has been lighting up their own home in far north Fort Worth since 2018 with Tell Family Lights, a synchronized Christmas lights show that annually makes CultureMap's lists of must-see displays. They still plan to host the free event at their 76244 home this year but have expanded their efforts to include Sugar Lane Lights, which they describe as the “sweetest holiday light show in Texas.”

Sugar Lane Lights will be hosted on rented land in Haslet and feature a mile-long drive with 2 million LED lights programmed to shine in sync with upbeat holiday songs. Each light can be changed to over 16 million possible colors, creating a unique holiday show.

Tell says the family worked with Murphy Christmas Lighting, a local Christmas light service company, but otherwise outsourced no help to create the show. The display’s props, configuration, network, sequencing, effects and everything else that went into creating the show was 100 percent designed by the family.

“A lot of these other displays are different,” Tell says of the rarity of their in-house model. “A lot of them are outsourced and kind of pieced together. So the person that owns it, if you ask them how it’s done, they have no idea. So doing this all ourselves, we have full control of everything.”

Tell’s experience as an IT consultant helped him manage the creation of the display. He says he has worked with other companies since 2018 to configure other major lights displays in Texas.

The Sugar Lane Lights display will feature 1,200 props, including a 50-foot tall Christmas tree decorated with 90,000 lights, a 25-foot tall gingerbread house, and a 16-foot tall snowflake. Guests will also be able to purchase battery-charged LED bracelets that are synced to the show’s music.

Tells says his wife, Jennifer, sequenced the show’s effects and programmed the lights to sync with the show’s music. Oftentimes, light shows will sequence all props to be doing the same thing — Sugar Lane Lights didn’t. Each of the eight songs took 180 hours of programming, Tell says.

“The artistic part of it is just going to be a lot more detailed than a lot of the other [shows],” he says.

Prices for the show vary from $30 to $55 per car depending on entry time, and tickets can be purchased online. Entry times are categorized on the website as sweet (no traffic), semi-sweet (light traffic) and toothache (medium to heavy traffic). Tell says the family decided to discount sweet entry times to encourage more people to visit the show during less popular hours and hopefully reduce traffic congestion.

There's a handy FAQ about vehicle height, pets, and more here.

Tell says the family hopes to open the show on Friday, November 11, but recent storms have caused delays. Most likely it will open on November 17, they predict. They'll be open nightly until December 31, 5:30-10 pm on weekdays and 5:30-11 pm on weekends.

Sugar Lane Lights can be found at 12452 Willow Springs Rd., Haslet. (The entrance is directly after the shipping containers, right before the Oasis Church.)

Follow their website or Facebook page for more information and updates.

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Closure News

Fort Worth chef reluctantly closes Near Southside brunch favorite

Teresa Gubbins
Nov 8, 2022 | 12:54 pm
Salmon, Fixture
Photo courtesy of Farrar Food Photography [http://www.farrarfoodphotography.com]

Fixture had many creative dishes at a reasonable price like this salmon.

A neighborhood restaurant from an acclaimed Fort Worth chef has closed: Fixture, which served comfort food and craft cocktails in Fort Worth's trendy Near Southside, closed on November 7, after eight years.

Chef-owner Ben Merritt says he was sad to have to shutter the restaurant, but that circumstances that have emerged since the pandemic forced the closure.

"We were able to survive COVID, but the tsunami that has occurred with rising labor costs and the cost of ingredients have made it hard for restaurants, especially a neighborhood restaurant like Fixture," he says.

"Last year was our best year in sales, everyone came out after the lockdown to support small businesses," he says. "But I think now we're seeing the real aftereffect of the pandemic. People aren't dining out as much as they used to, and the costs are so much higher."

That includes not only ingredients but wages.

"I remember when we opened eight years ago, a line cook would get $10 an hour," he says. "Now you can't find a dishwasher for that. I'm glad to see wages go up, but it makes it difficult for moderate priced restaurants."

Fixture was a revelation when it opened: a chef-driven great-quality restaurant with moderate prices in a hip neighborhood, and a philosophy that "food doesn't have to be expensive to be great, nor require a white tablecloth." It was nominated for Best New Restaurant of the year in CultureMap's 2016 Tastemaker awards.

The menu ranged from sandwiches like pork loin & apple and a Texas cheesesteak to entrees such as tenderloin with garlic mashed potatoes, shrimp & green chili cheese grits, and chicken & waffles.

Fixture was early on the brunch scene, a meal that Merritt says accounted for a good chunk of their business.

"We always did a great brunch, but it wasn't enough to pay the bills for the rest of the week," he says.

The chef also opened a small place in 2019 called Ben's Triple B: Biscuits, Burgers and Brews near the campus of Texas Wesleyan University, part of the Rosedale Renaissance, a charge led by Texas Wesleyan, in partnership with the City of Fort Worth and Tarrant County, to revitalize the historic Polytechnic Heights neighborhood and East Fort Worth. It closed it in 2021, also due to the pandemic.

Merritt has received numerous awards including a nomination for Best Chef of the Year in CultureMap's 2018 Tastemaker Awards, as well as a nomination for Best New Restaurant in 2022 for Fitzgerald, Merritt's upscale restaurant on Camp Bowie Boulevard, which he says is doing well.

"It's a higher price point and I think people don't bat an eye on the west side," he says.

"I feel horrible shutting Fixture down," he says. "Probably the best way to describe it is like the family pet that we spent a lot of money on vet bills to keep it alive, and you finally reach that point where it's time to put it down."

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This week in gluttony

These are the 5 best food and drink events in Fort Worth this week

Celestina Blok
Nov 8, 2022 | 9:17 am
Tacos a Go Go tacos
Photo by Julie Nong

Tacos for everyone this week.

It’s a week of giving and sharing, with multiple restaurants honoring veterans with complimentary meals and the return of a big free dinner to those who'd like one. Step back in time with a Dutch oven cooking demonstration at one of Fort Worth’s most cherished museums, learn to smoke the perfect BBQ brisket, and save room for tacos during a two-day festival.

Wednesday, November 9

Feast of Sharing 10th Annual Holiday Dinner
Hosted by H-E-B and Central Market, this community celebration will provide complimentary dinner to anyone who wishes to attend. The event is back after a two-year hiatus and is expected to draw around 10,000 people to Dickies Arena. (Volunteers are still needed.) Besides a meal, there will be kids’ activities, live entertainment, health and family services, and an appearance by Santa. The event will run from 3-7 pm.

Thursday, November 10-Friday, November 11

Veterans Day deals and discounts
Dozens of local restaurants are offering free and discounted meals and menu items for active military and veterans. For a complete list, go here.

Saturday, November 12

Dutch Oven Cooking at Log Cabin Village
Visit this living history museum and learn how ancestors used to prepare meals over hot coals during a Dutch oven cooking demonstration led by the Lone Star Dutch Oven Society. The demonstrations (which often include samples) will run from 10 am- 2 pm and are free with admission ($7 for adults, and $6 for kids ages 4-17 and adults 60-plus).

Texas Taco Festival at Texas Live
More than two dozen restaurants and food vendors will participate in the two-day event, which will feature not only tacos but margaritas, tequila flights, desserts, and more. Tickets range from general admission ($12.99 on Sunday, $16.99 on Saturday), which allows for entry at 2 pm and includes one beer or cocktail, to VIP ($59.99 Sunday, sold out for Saturday), which grants early admission at noon and includes private bars, five taco vouchers, chips and salsa, two beers or cocktails, and gift bag with swag. Additional vouchers may be purchased at the event. Children 10 and under do not need a ticket.

BrisketU at Rahr & Sons Brewing
Backyard Pitmasters’ acclaimed BrisketU class promises to teach the everyday meat lover how to work a pit and create a perfectly smoked brisket. Renowned pitmasters will teach participants about BBQ pits, choosing the right cut of brisket, trimming techniques, rubs and prep, wood selection, starting and managing a fire, timing the cook, and properly slicing the end result. The three-hour class is $119 per person; register here.

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