Where to Eat
Where to eat in Fort Worth right now: 6 unsung hero restaurants for May
Not every restaurant in Fort Worth has a post that goes viral on TikTok, or is constantly written about by food media types. Some survive on word of mouth and dedicated followers.
This month’s Where to Eat is dedicated to these under-the-radar gems.
Belzoni’s Catfish Cafe
Opened in 2019, this tiny restaurant on the far west side of Fort Worth is the handiwork of Dwight Cooley, a native of Belzoni, Mississippi, the town unofficially known as the farm-raised catfish capital of the world. Catfish is, obviously, the primary focus here, and Cooley does it two ways: in traditional planks, or in the more unusual form of what he calls "catfish balls" - bite-sized circles of catfish stuffed with jalapeños and onions and served with spicy tartar sauce. Sides include fried okra, tubular hushpuppies, turnip greens, mac and cheese, and green beans.
Bún Dông Ba
In an area jam-packed with Vietnamese restaurants, this no frills spot in Haltom City stands out for its expansive menu and friendly service. Noodle dishes are the big thing here: stir-fried flat rice noodles and stir-fried egg noodles both come crispy or soft, with your choice of beef, shrimp, chicken, pork, or seafood. There’s also nearly 20 varieties of pho, plus Korean ribs, bánh xèo (crispy rice pancakes), and an assortment of boba drinks and smoothies.
Fiesta Mexican Restaurant
For good, solid Tex Mex and Mex Mex, many turn to this long-running restaurant on the city’s south side. Open since 1978, it was originally located in a converted house on Hemphill and now resides across the street, in a spacious, festively decorated spot still run by the Barriga family, its original owners. The restaurant has won awards for its nachos, piled high with refried beans and cheese that’s still melting when they hit your table. Those who crave Tex Mex basics will have much to choose from, such as chicken enchiladas, gorditas, chile rellanos, and excellent chimichangas. Other popular dishes include molcajete, a mix of grilled meats and seafood served on a sizzling platter; guisados; and menudo. Thick, freshly made corn tortillas may be the best in town.
J’s Burgers N’ More
Open for more than 30 years, this downtown breakfast and lunch spot at 905 Throckmorton St. is a hidden gem, known mostly to downtown workers and local police and firemen who are stationed nearby. They line up daily for solid breakfast dishes, good burgers, and classic Chinese cuisine, unfussily served by husband-wife owners Dee Chirabandhu and Pinai Tawanron in a large, modest dining room. Burgers are good and inexpensive, with thin patties that taste of a well-seasoned grill. Blackboard specials rotate daily but always include Chinese and Thai staples priced under $10 - prices that are hard to beat, especially downtown.
Longoria’s BBQ
Long before housemade sausage became a thing at local craft barbecue spots, the Longoria family was serving exceptional handmade sausage out of a charmingly ramshackle building on a bumpy back road in the Fort Worth suburb of Everman. Opened in 1995, it’s run by David Longoria, whose brother and parents manned it before him. The recipe for the restaurant’s specially blended brisket sausage is such a guarded secret that David once turned down an opportunity to appear on a food reality show because they wanted him to divulge it. Some of the same ingredients go into the restaurant’s stellar burgers, another menu staple. Other dishes include brisket chili, sliced or chopped brisket tacos, and smoked barbacoa.
Thai Texas
This family-owned restaurant has been serving excellent Thai food out of a strip mall space in south Arlington for 10 years. Owner/chef Anong Khunsri, who has worked in or run a string of similar restaurants from here to Bangkok, serves admirable renditions of essential Thai dishes, such as pad woon sen and lad na. But she also puts a Texas spin on things with dishes like crispy Thai Texas duck, made up of boneless crispy duck topped with cashews and tamarind sauce.